7:30 am
The very first Ramadan I have to keep all my fasts as fardh, I find myself in the middle of a desert.
Not the prettified lush palm trees and 24/7 AC-ed mirage, where a can of chilled cola is never out of reach and you need cotton quilts in summer, but the Real Thing. Where camel carts trundle on sandy paths and women dressed in scarlet tie-and-dye clothes balance brown earthen pitchers on their heads and walk miles to get a drink of water for their families.
I wake up with cacti growing in my throat and check my wristwatch. Groan. Hours to go until iftaar.
Unable to lie still, I get out of bed and do wudhu with cool water out of an earthen pot. Everyone else seems to be asleep. I sit on the rope-bed in the verandah and let the hot desert wind wipe my face with its feverish fingers.
* * * * * * *
At suhoor earlier that morning, I was shocked to see mango everywhere. Mango with milk. Mango with porridge. Mango with roti. I think I even saw someone eating mango with tea.
I guess my face unwittingly reflected the horror I felt, when one of my cousins jibed…"This isn't Inglistaan sister. ."
"Can I have some bread?"
"Where does that grow?"
Not being in the mood for wisecracks at 4 am in the morning, I have a glass of milk and a chocolate. Already, I have acquired a "reputation" as the girl-who-only-ate-chocolates. Which explains why I received only nine proposals in my first week there. If I had been a regular girl, the number may well have been ninety.
* * * *
10:30 am:
Everyone's up. The boys are taking airguns off the niches in the wall and the women are organizing the household.
"What's up?" I ask the only brother it is safe to talk to, because he hasn't yet grown the trademark upturned moustache.
"A hunting we will go", he sings…he goes to a British boarding school in a big city.
"Whenever we have guests over, we never buy meat. We hunt it…" he explains, mentally grooming his moustache.
11 .15 am
While the men are climbing onto jeeps, my cousin calls me out to the terrace. "Look there…that's a red storm. We might even get caught in it"…he sounds as if he's looking forward to it.
1.30 pm
It's true. It is a storm where the red sand swirls in the air like rain and beats against windows and closed doors, After dhuhr, I have little else to do so I sit by the window and watch the storm wear itself out against the red stone of the house.
I have been forbidden the terrace . My aunt says she played with the children of jinns there as a child, and they may still be lurking there waiting to make friends with strange, new girls . I believe her.
3.20 pm
They're back. Jeeps laden with carcasses. Wild duck and wild rabbit. Wild deer. There's even a wild fowl in there.
"Want to come and have a look?" a cousin asks.
I get up grudgingly and go to the kitchen where the booty is equally divided between maids and cooks who set to work cleaning and cooking. Kebabs. Korma. Biryaani.
4:15 pm
After 'asr I finally spot something to see. Construction workers live in shanties close to the red-stone house, moving their huts whenever they get a new contract, never aspiring to live in the houses they build for others.
The women return first, babies in slings on their backs and water pots balanced on heads and waists. They set to work, making smoky fires, kneading barley dough and grinding garlic and chilli to a fiery red paste. They slap the dough between their palms and cook it on overturned iron skillets.
The smell of their cooking mixes with the aroma of sizzling kebabs and pakoras.
5:30 pm
The girls are dolling up in their rooms and the servants are spreading metres of starched white dastarkhaan in the verandah.
My great-grandmother's rocking chair is brought out, she follows leaning on the arms of two middle-aged daughters-in-law. She smells of moth balls and rose water. She catches my eye and nods to me to come closer. She kisses my forehead and asks me what I have been doing all day. Have I decided on any of her great-grandsons, she asks. I grimace and hope it passes for a "shy smile".
6.25 pm
The guests are here. Girls and women, eyes bright with satiated sleep and ears, arms, necks, noses aglow with glinting jewels. I have a curiosity value of my own as the strange, chocolate-eating-cousin-from-outer-space and invite many stares. A weak spiral of smoke rises beyond the wall.
I get up to check it out.
The labourers are back. Sitting in groups around the cooking fires, waiting for the cannon ball to sound.
7.15
Bright streaks explode in the maghrib sky. We all drink almond sherbet and eat sticky sweet dates. The girl on my left offers me some more sherbet, but I feel thirsty for water. I make my way to the kitchen where the sight of so much food nearly makes me retch.
I step out of the house and walk toward the shanties, not knowing why I'm going there. I can see them eating.
"Where d'you think you're going?" an indignant voice follows me. It's one of the maids.
"Oh just walking around…I want to check out what those people are eating for iftaar."
"Do you know they kidnap young girls like you and sell them? Besides, you won't like what they're eating."
"I only want to try. Can you get me some?"
"I'll be kicked out of the house if anyone comes to know I've been feeding visitors with labourers food."
"I won't let anyone know. Really."
After a while she returns with a piece of bread smeared with a little red chutney. It is still warm. The labourers eye us while chewing their food, never pausing, except to drink a gulp of water.
I put a piece of the bread in my mouth. It is hard to chew and tasteless.
Why would anyone eat it with so much relish?
* * * *
This Ramadan diary is post-dated by about 15 years, but it remains one of my most powerful memories of Ramadan…one that is refreshed annually by the sight of overloaded sufras at iftaar parties.
It is easy to romanticize hunger. We read about the early Muslims passing out from hunger by the roadside, eating leaves and chewing animal skins, licking the remains of empty containers to ward off hunger. We read about Allaah's Messenger tying his girdle tightly against his stomach in times of want and eating only to a third of his stomach in times of plenty.
We read about the Mothers of the Believers surviving on "the two black things" : dates and water. We read about them breaking their fast with a crust of bread, having spent hundreds of gold coins in charity in the earlier part of the day. We read of men weeping while breaking their fast with a cool drink and sufficient food, for fear that they might be receiving the rewards of their deeds in this world and will have nothing in the hereafter.
Yet, we justify our indulgences as signs of "barakah" – the blessings of Ramadan. Notwithstanding the mountains of uneaten food that make their way to the garbage. Notwithstanding the fact that we have turned the month of fasting into night after night of unabashed feasting.
Notwithstanding the fact that as we eat, drink and make merry, there are people in our Ummah – our extended family -- for whom the hunger does not end at sunset.
May Allaah forgive us our shortcomings and excesses.
May Allaah accept from us our good deeds done only for His sake.
Labels: Ramadhaan, reminiscences